My favorite Cirque in Glacier Park. Goat trails only!

How to start the 2025 hiking season? Hmmmm. Well, the Many Glacier Valley will be mostly closed for hiking access this season due to construction and lack of parking, so it’s best to get up there before the restrictions kick in.

I always like to get in a snow route to start things off right. But the temps have been so unseasonably high the last two weeks, I’m sure that Dave’s Direct and the Ptarmigan Tunnel are melted out. And I don’t want anything too long or arduous for my soft feet and my winter blubber. Hmmmm.

I got it—an old classic. A place I’ve been to many times before, but have always just passed thru and never really just sat down and savored. Snow Moon and Fallen Leaf lakes in that big, beautiful hidden cirque at the foot of Mt Allen, just behind the Many Glacier Hotel.

For all of the crowds and chaos that are forever present at Many Glacier, those early morning views never cease to amaze. Just a reminder that sometimes you have to pay the price for such beauty by tolerating the foolish crassness and stupidity of your fellow man – the National Park Touron.

At 5:30a it was easy to find a spot to park at the lot behind the MGH. It was also when I realized just how narrow the Delica is compared to a normal American vehicle. Yeah. I shouldn’t have any problems with door dings.

This hike has all the perfect numbers for a nice casual half-day hike. Around 4 miles round. Under 2k of gain. And roughly a two-hour approach depending on your physical condition. AND if you find the right goat trail.

I have always loved watching the day wake up the valley. The alpenglow fades away to the harsh cerulean blues on a cloudless day. However, the bugs were waking up as well. Small mosquitoes. A new batch, and I left my bug spray in the van.

But if experience with the place proved correct, as soon as the sun started to heat up the valleys a little more, I could expect that soft mountain breeze of the rising air to keep those little buggers from landing. I was not disappointed.

I was amazed at all of the beargrass in bloom. At this altitude, this is generally an early to mid-July thing. The early spring heat not only brought on an early melt but also put these little fellows about three weeks ahead of their normal arrival. I can’t wait to start my Red Bus tour rotation. People LOVE the beargrass!

As I continue to climb the scree slope, more of the valley opens up. With so little seasonal snow up high, we are certain for a dry summer. But it is short. Only a few more months until the cycle of winter starts once again.

The valley is known for its glaciers. They have pulled back considerably since 1885, when George B. Grinnell was out here ‘discovering’ them. In the early season, they still retain much of their past glory with the help of seasonal snow. But that is fading fast.

At the top of the scree field I start the high goat trail traverse. This will take me around the mountain to a large waterfall that marks the entrance to the cirque that holds Snow Moon and Fallen Leaf.

From out of nowhere, I hear what sounds like a cannon burst. I turn around and see that there has been an enormous rockslide on the escarpment wall near the approach to Appekunny Falls. The dust cloud was amazing to watch. It reminds me why there is no longer a maintained trail up to Nataki Lake in that amazing hanging basin.

It is hard to believe that this is the ONLY parking for the entire Many Glacier Valley this summer. For hotel guests, tour boats, and the horse ride concession. And hikers that outnumber all of those people twenty to one. Yep. Going to be a different kind of summer.

I always like looking back every now and then to remember my route. There are a few cairns along the goat trail, but most of them are in places that are obvious. One last view of the valley before I round the shoulder and see what condition the couloirs are in.

 

The goat trail cuts across four to five deep drainages, which love to hold snow. All of them were mostly dry and snow-free except for this fellow. It was only a 40 ft traverse, but at a 40 degree angle with 400 feet of runout. I finally got to use the ice axe I was carrying.

I get my first view of Schwab Falls, a local name given to these waters by employee climbers back in the 50s. I make a direct line to the base and then fight my way up the last scree slope to the upper basins, which contain the jewels I seek.

Fallen Leaf Lake appears to be all there is. But if you follow the shoreline to the right, you’ll be rewarded with its lovely twin.

Snow Moon Lake with the false summit of Mt Allen directly behind. The outlet to Fallen Leaf creates a nice waterfall that I will spend some time at. Not just beautiful, but it generates enough wind to keep the biting bugs at bay.  

I decided to throw my sitting pad out between the two lakes after I found some good rocks to cross on. Most of the stepping stones are under the rushing meltwater coming off the seasonal snow this time of the season.

I am sure these lakes freeze over every winter. Given how little sun his bowl gets, the lakes usually are covered deep into July. Sure, Iceberg Lake has its charm (and much easier access). But if you want to get away from the crowds on the back side of this ridge, there is no better place for solitude.

But can you ever really be alone in Glacier? My little marmot friend here came at me huffing and puffing like a mini grizzly bear. But that’s ok. I know I’m in his world. And ever since the Great Marmot Amends last season, I have come to give the little fellow some respect.

Generally I have to secure my nuts and anything salty from these little shag carpet koala bears. But not this one. Time to relax. And relax I did.  

But I did shoot a little pano of the cirque, one-take GoatBoy style.

There is a lot to be said for just kicking back. I would have watched some clouds, but none were to be had. After about an hour and a fitful nap, my muscles were starting to cramp up. So, it’s time to get home while I still can walk.

The high goat trail traverse back was long and uneventful. I was thinking of trying out the lower goat trail, but it’s better to stick with the devil I knew.

Plus, the steps I kicked in were still firm enough for a good bite and a safe crossing. I don’t like taking the extra weight of crampons and an ice axe on these hikes, but in early season, it’s always better to be safe than sorry. I don’t want to be on the news as that experienced climber who dies like a baby man with all of his equipment securely lashed to his backpack.

Nice hike and a nice start to 2025. Can’t wait to see what this season will bring.

GoatBoy out! And a little stiff the day after,